Split Trip

November 19

Split is 12 miles from Trogir, so a bus ride is needed to get there. Dick was hood-winked into a "private car" ride instead costing 1.5X more. But, it was quick and we were delivered right to the old town

It is Saturday morning so there are many street vendors gathered outside the city walls to greet us. The tourist info office, which we try to find as soon as we arrive in any new town, is a great help...maps and brochures and advice.

History tells us that Split originated in the 3rd century. The Roman king Diocletian had a huge (198,000 sq.ft) palace built there, parts of which still exist. The town walkways now form a maze passing through the palace grounds, with plenty of high-end clothing and shoe shops, jewelry shops (zlata=gold), cafés, hair salons (frizerski), and small hotels. We are glad we're visiting during November because the tourist crowds in the summer must be overwhelming.

The old town has expanded beyond the palace walls with a fish market, plazas, and more shopping opportunities. We have limited time today, so we only walk to various sites that we will investigate more thoroughly next week over three days.

Ivan Meštrović, a famous 19th century Croatian sculptor, lived here in what is now his gallery. In Chicago, the two Indian horseback riders at Michigan and Congress were done by Meštrović. This gallery will be a destination when we return.

We stop for late lunch/early dinner at an out-of-the-way konoba. At a table near us is the female star of the operetta we plan to see, eating with the director.

Time to catch the bus back to Trogir for one more night there before heading to Skradin and the Krka NP.

Krka National Park

November 20 and 21

Another day of travel by bus on the 20th. There are some disadvantages to bus travel, but we think the advantages outweigh them...less stressful, more sightseeing, no parking problems, more exercise in walking, less cost, no rush to get to the next attraction, and an opportunity to mix with the people and enjoy the street scenes.

The ride along the coast from Trogir to šibenik reveals a difference in terrain from that in Istria. No red clay. Instead, white stone karsts and cliffs down to the sea. Much higher hills and open land mostly covered with scrub trees.

We started out after a little breakfast on the main piazza in Trogir. Sandy treated herself to a large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice while Dick had Americano coffee and a pastry.

Our plan is to travel by bus to Krka National park which is near Skradin, about 1-1/2 hours from Trogir. The interim stop is in šebinek which is a port city of 50,000 people. We read about a neat restaurant there, so we searched it out on foot, asking directions of many people along the way, and in the process saw the old town. Our waiter reminded us both of Buddy Hackett, crooked mouth and all.

The final leg of the days journey was a 30 minute bus ride inland to our final destination for two days, the village of Skradin. It's a tiny town, and probably mobbed during the summer because of the park. In November, it's empty and quiet.

We rented some great bikes on Monday morning, and rode 4km to the Park along the Krka River. Then, we took a delightful 3 mile walk to see the seven waterfalls known as the Skradinski Buk. One falls has seventeen cascades with very unusual growths called travertines. It is said it is one of the best known natural beauties of Croatia and it was stunning.

Much of the walk was on either paths and steps paved with native stone or wooden planked path that bent and turned and seemed to cross the river from small islands and fit in with the landscape. The park is designed to protect the environment and they have done a great job.

We were lucky to encounter one couple so they could take our picture. That was it for crowds. It was a perfect, serene, sunny day . We are trying to mix indoor and outdoor activities, along with scenic and historic. What a way to learn history !

We saw the first hydroelectric plant in Croatia located in the Park. It was designed by Nikola Tesla (a native of Croatia). He worked with Thomas Edison to build a similar plant at Niagara Falls that went into operation only two days prior to this one. Tesla felt that AC power was the way of the future, and eventually broke away from Edison who invented DC. Guess who won, but didn't get recognition?

Our days activities ended with a pretty steep walk up to a destroyed fortress above the village. Some work has been done to restore it, but there's much more to complete, if ever they do it.

This town was bombed and fought over during the 1991 civil war. There are still buildings that were destroyed. And yet, many have been rebuilt, and the village is a nice destination.

Enjoyed a great dinner at a local restaurant that Dick has already written Trip Advisor about since the food and people were outstanding. I had black cuttlefish risotto and Dick had green gnocchi with shrimp. Everyday fare !

Had another funny "lost in translation" moment this morning. One of the owners asked if "everything OK ?" and I asked if we could have more heat in our room. He said "sure" and then asked, What is "heat"?

Next Stop...Dubrovnik

11/28
We're up before 6:00am to catch a bus/ferry to the Pejelšac Pennisula and on to Dubrovnik. It was a first for us to get on a bus that went on a ferry and then back on to a highway. We saw a marvelous sunrise leaving Korcula with many islands near by. This is very mountainous territory, and steep right down to the sea, rugged with dense pine trees. We think it is every bit as awe-inspiring and beautiful as Switzerland or Italy.

We drive through some interesting towns and of course stop for coffee. The coffee consumption here is off the charts. Even Dick, Mr. Coffee, is amazed. One town, Ston, has unbelievable walls going right up the mountain. They are call feats of medieval architecture. How in the world did they build them?

A city bus (#3) brings us to the old city main gate, Pile (Pee-leh). A quick breakfast on the Stradun (main street) since we both craved an omelet, followed by 78 steps up a narrow "street" to our apartment...we are happy to be in good shape and with little luggage.

Our hostess, Lidija, was waiting to greet us, providing some ideas and directions of what to see and do. She also offered her memories of the 1991-92 war with Serbia, crediting President Clinton with ending the conflict. She had spent a year with her baby girl, sometimes in the catacombs, beneath Dubrovnik while her husband was defending the town. Over half of the homes and buildings. were destroyed or ruined, some still not rebuilt. It is amazing how resilient the people are and how much has been restored in less than twenty years.

Lidija just delivered some of her father's homemade beef goulash and bread. We'll have dinner-in tonight! We washed out some clothes because there is a washer, but no dryer. We've become accustomed to hanging the wet laundry out on a line.

Forty-two more steps up brings us to the next cross passageway. Sandy noticed a sign for a cable car to the top of the mountain behind the town which we hopped on for a 5 minute ride. From that vantage, the town looks like a miniature replica. The Adriatic/Mediterranean Sea spreads far into the distance.

Dubrovnik was heavily bombarded during the war with Serbia. Over 14,000 people were killed, half of them civilians. A war museum is housed in a 16th century fort on the mountain. It was used during the war in an attempt to protect Dubrovnik. We enjoyed a drink along with the view after we went through the museum. And then
walked around a bit tonight. There is much to take in tomorrow. Quite a city. Ended our day with some marvelous gelato.

Had a nice phone call from John. Nicky asked "when you come Grammy ?" We will be in Singapore in three weeks.

Thanksgiving Day in Split, Croatia

November 24, Thanksgiving Day

Today we give thanks for all we've been given. Above all, FAMILY is what we are most thankful for. Good health for all is a close second. And, the opportunity to get a good education, to find worthwhile work, and to be in a situation to be able to help others who are in need. Ditto from Sandy.

Not raining this morning, but a little overcast. Prediction for some sun. Thanks for that.

It's a long walk to the Ivan Meštrović Gallery and Museum, and it is well worth the effort. The gallery is in the artist's home overlooking the bay in Split. Marble, bronze and wood sculpture is displayed in the garden and house. Each is captivating in style and pose. He carved 22 wood reliefs depicting events in Jesus' life. They are exhibited in a separate building he had built specifically for them.

This was a wonderful exhibit. He was quite a man. Gave his villa to the Croatian people which is the gallery. Beautiful, touching work. Many sculptures of family groups and the wood reliefs are spectacular. He was in prison for his political and religious views against communism and atheism. He escaped to America, to live in South Bend, Indiana, where he died. So much war due to political corruption rather than people unable to get along.

On the return trip, we stopped briefly at the Archeological Museum. An elaborate display of stonework and gold objects. Beautiful elaborate jewelry.

We had lunch outdoors in the plaza of our hotel. There was a turkey dish listed, but it turned out to be chicken. I ordered it anyway because it was the closest I could get to traditional T'day meal. It came with French fries. Mom had Turkeyday gnocchi with scampi and salmon.

Loved our view from our front window. Shutters are such a good idea. It was like a Monet picture with people walking around with umbrellas.

We made a long indirect trek to the Split Maritime Museum located in an old fort. Models of historic ships and other maritime memorabilia. Split was well known for ship building, but the industry has been almost shutdown because of competition from Korea and China. And, the EU requires Croatia to stop subsidizing the industry for EU membership. No one wants to buy the shipyards (not even for 1 kuna) because they carry such heavy debt.

We concluded our culture day by attending the annual live theater production at the Hrvasko Narodno Kazalište of Ivo Tijardović's "Splitski Akvarel". That's the National Theater, an operetta about Split's evolution over several centuries, written by a famous Split composer.

It was three acts lasting three hours during which we couldn't understand a word, nor very little about the historic events. There seemed to be a lot of parody, kind of like a Gilbert and Sullivan operetta. The audience laughed and applauded a lot. Very beautiful theatre. Couldn't believe how loud the audience was before and during intermissions. Cast included well over forty people, all very good voices. This production is a sell-out every show!

Had to return home to watch internet clips of the Green Bay Packers. They won 25-17, 17 wins without a loss since last season. Wow, what a team. Just like the days of Starr.

Travel Day to Krka National Park

November 20

Another day of travel by bus. There are some disadvantages to bus travel, but we think the advantages outweigh them...less stressful, more sightseeing, no parking problems, more exercise in walking, less cost, and an opportunity to see the people and the street scenes.

The ride along the coast reveals a difference in terrain from that in Istria. No red clay. Instead white stone, and cliffs down to the sea.

We start out after a little breakfast on the main piazza in Trogir. I treated myself with a large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Our plan is to go to Krka National park, which is about 1-1/2 hours from Trogir. The interim stop is in šebinek which is a port city of 50,000 people. Read about a neat restaurant here so we searched it out and saw the old town while doing it. The waiter reminded us both of Buddy Hackett, crooked mouth and all.

Then a 20 minute bus ride to our final destination for two days, Skradin. Tiny town, but probably mobbed during the summer because of the park. Rented some great bikes and rode 4km to the Park and then took a delightful walk to see the seven waterfalls. One had seventeen cascades and very unusual growths called travertines. It is said it is one of the best known natural beauties of Croatia and it was stunning.

Much of the walk was on a wooden planked path that bent and turned and seemed to fit in with the landscape so well. The park is designed to protect the environment. We were lucky to encounter one couple so they could take our picture and that was it for crowds. It was a perfect, serene, sunny day . We are trying to mix indoor and outdoor activities, along with scenic and historic. What a way to learn history !

We saw the first hydroelectric plant in Croatia, designed by Nikola Tesla (a native of Croatia). He worked with Thomas Edison to build a similar plant at Niagara Falls that went into operation only two days prior to this one.

Enjoyed a great dinner at a local restaurant that Dick has already written Trip Advisor about since the food and people were outstanding. I had black cuttlefish risotto and Dick had green gnocchi with shrimp. Everyday fare !

Had another funny "lost in translation" moment this morning. One of the owners asked if "everything OK ?" and I asked if we could have more heat in our room. He said "sure" and then asked, What is "heat"?

A Day in Trogir

November 18

Trogir is a 3rd century Greek town taking up an entire small island squeezed between the mainland and a much larger island of Čiovi, about 12 miles from Split. As we ventured out after breakfast we were happy to be here: sunny, warm and a picturesque town. It is on the list of historic towns. They are putting up some Christmas decorations.

There was some activity at the coffee shops in the square in front of our B&B. We had a big breakfast at our B&B.The village has many narrow paved walking paths; only bicycles are allowed. We walked all the way around the edges of town near the water, and then into the maze of paths that wind through the center. During that tour, we met the harbor master who lives in a stone villa that has been in his family since 1492, the year America was founded.

We also discovered that Kairos, the Greek god of the happy moment, is Trogir's symbol. As we walked in another part of town we saw several people working on an archeological dig. They had discovered some Roman graves from the 3rd century.

This is an important day for Croatia, November 18. They celebrate the defeat of 5,000 heavily-armed Serbs on that date in 1990 by a mere 500 Croat war heroes who had few armaments. This event changed the direction of the war in favor of Croatia leading to their independence in 1991. There will a blessing from the town loggia this evening presided over by the Bishop of Trogir, and children will place lighted candles in the form of a cross in the center of the piazza.

We stopped by at 17:30 to see the event. The plaza is crowded mostly with young people...from 8 to 18. There are some adults, and fewer men. Those who fought in the war and remember it are on the periphery watching. The kids who aren't old enough to remember the war, who now benefit from the democracy that was wrought, are having a good time...as they should...and placing their candles.

We were able to eat outside since they had some heaters going and had a relaxing pizza and beer.

Novigrad to Split

We were up before sunrise today in order to catch a bus to Riječka via Poreč. We had done our homework online to ensure time schedules from Novigrad to Split. As the bus climbs up from the coast, Sandy points out that there is frost on the ground and trees as the bus climbs higher and further from the coast.

In Riječka we walked a short distance to the train station with an hour layover. Riječka is the largest city we have seen in Croatia. It is a major shipping port that has lost all of its original traditions through crowding with communist-era tall apartment buildings.

The train is reminiscent of old movies. There are only two cars with two very steep entry steps. We need help getting up and on.The cars have individual compartments each with comfortable six seats. You can open the window and slide the seat out to recline. The initial leg climbs steadily into a mountainous region with lots of open forested land and scattered villages.

Due to some rail repairs, we transfer to a bus at Blace, high in the mountains. We will continue by bus to another small village and then catch another train to Ogulin. Building styles in these mountains appears more Swiss or Austrian with wide roof overhangs, wooden and stucco exteriors, brown stain and white paint, and rosemalling on the shutters, very different than the colorful Mediterranean style In Istria.

Now on a larger and newer train and it too is very comfortable and few people. It is very foggy in these mountains. The conductor just gave us coffee. Another "Lost in Translation " moment. Dick said black and I said cream and sugar and we both got the same thing. Our final train doesn't have compartments, but we have a table for playing cribbage and gin rummy.

The conductor does not speak/understand English. We thought he had asked us to move to another car, so Dick started getting our bags together. He motioned "not now, next stop". As it turned out, he meant that we would need to transfer trains at the next stop. He probably thought Dick was going to get off the train immediately. The man across the aisle from us is very helpful, and explained this all to us afterward. Another "lost in translation" moment! We heard the conductor laughing with the engineer, undoubtedly about those crazy Americans.

The final leg of today's journey was good and bad. The good: a nice man we met on the train (a veteran of the 1991 civil war) walked with us to the #37 bus which is the public transportation to Trogir where we are staying for the next three nights. The bad, or not so good: #37 bus. Although our new friend thankfully found us seats on the bus, it was very crowded and it took over an hour to get to Trogir because of the many stops.

Our B&B is located right behind the Cathedral in Trogir in the old town. Our host's wife injured her back earlier today, so we are not able to meet her, but their daughter speaks English well enough to direct us to the one and only restaurant still open in the old town.

This week we enjoyed a couple nice picnics and tried our hand at scallops in their shell and sole. Sweet lady at the fish market. She told us November is sole month. She sells some kind of fish spread that was great on our olive crackers.

Also had our last English class and brought our Chicago playing cards that had descriptions on them. That was fun. We have decided to try and take Italian lessons when we get to Italy, since we sure didn't pick up much Croatian. Most Croatians speak Italian and all take English in school.