Ljubljana is a Wonderful Old City

12/07
After converting most of our kuna (Croatian money) to Euro for the remainder of our travels, we walk up hill to the Ljubljana castle. It's set behind the old town several hundred feet above, providing a great view of the town below.

We have a good lunch in the small restaurant at the castle ordering just before a large group arrives. It's quite foggy, so we nix climbing to the top of the tower (another 100 steps). But, we decide to tour the Slovenian History Museum. What a good choice!

It's a high "tech production" intermixing lots of computerized documentation with displays of objects appropriate for the period being discussed. We are captivated for at least two hours which, for me, could have been several more, but I was tired of trying to absorb the information and of walking/standing.

I wish I could reduce what we tried to understand to a few sentences. Mostly, we began to understand that Slovenia (and the Balkans in general) are the focus of an important culture. In recent centuries they have suffered and overcome many conflicts in their country.

Most recently, a 10 day war in 1991 with Serbia and Croatia after Slovenia voted to secede from Yugoslavia. They "won the war" of independence. Their proximity to Austria and Italy probably gave the war more attention from the west than the other wars in the Balkans at that time. That abbreviated the war.

We spoke with a knowledgeable docent regarding more of the country's progress in the past 21 years since independence, which they celebrate on December 21. They have made great progress. They are full EU members since 2004, and are positive contributors in support of the Euro.

Ljubljanica River runs through the old town. There are at least seven bridges with names like Butchers and Cobblers. The most famous is the Triple Bridge designed by a local architect/hero, Jošef Plečnik. He had great influence in the layout and building designs in Ljubljana and other European cities.

The north side of the river has most of the shops and restaurants, very chic places. The south has the city market as well as the castle. This is a more real town, less touristic. They celebrate their culture, but enjoy life today, too. For instance, the street bands at night are a mix of Country Western Rock and traditional music. The streets are active with shoppers, strollers, and bicyclers (bike-friendly town).

The December outdoor celebrations continue tonight around the main square. Lots of warmed wine, crepes, hot dogs, and music. All ages and families. And, us, too. We like this town lot!

Morning in Zagreb before Leaving for Ljubljana.

12/6, Tuesday

Three sharp raps on our compartment door at 6:10 wake us in time to brush teeth and dress for arrival at 6:30. Sleeping on a train is not easy (even for Dick). We're both pretty groggy and have developed the gait to stay upright on a train. Quite a sight. Instead of turning lights on when reaching the station, we were immersed in total darkness groping for our belongings. Again so thankful we are traveling light.

We're on the streets of Zagreb by 7:00, pretty much alone. Per Rick Steves, we catch the #6 tram into the commercial district, only three stops, and within the free zone. These really move people around quickly.

We had about 4 plus hours to eat a little breakfast and see Zagreb. We did a good job. Since it is the capital of Croatia and a quarter of the entire population of Croatia live here there is lots to cover.

The main square is called Jelacić Trg where we start our walking tour. It's the heart of the commercial part of the city. Great tourist office there! Good people watching spot. They're all set up for Christmas.

The Cathedral of Mary has two towers that dominate the skyline and a beautiful domed arched entrance. Mary is the patron saint of Zagreb. The churches are really busy today, not with tourists but locals. It must be St. Nicholas Day, although Croatians are strong Catholics and regular church-goers.

We take a brisk walking tour of the two Medieval villages that form the old town portion of Zagreb. Gradec, the upper village, contains many marvelous museums. Kaptol, the lower village, has several churches. We reached Gradec by going up a cute little funicular. It's free for senior citizens like us.

We read about the Croatian Museum of Naive Art, a marvelous small venue in the upper city. We were there when it opened at ten. There are six small rooms of paintings and sculpture by untrained (naive) artists from the early 30's up to the 80's. Grandma Moses in the USA is considered a naive artist.

Our train to Ljubljana takes us into another country, Slovenia. While on Croatian tracks, officers on the train inspect our passports. The train stops at the border, Slovenian officers and agents board and they repeat the procedure. Seems like duplication, but both countries want to protect themselves from illegal old people.

Ljubljana is seems more Austrian than Balkan in architecture and economy. The old town is more than quaint. It is beautiful, much like I imagine Prague to be (having only seen pictures). Interesting architecture, stretching along a river with many bridges (including a triple bridge), many people on bicycles, lots of activity in the various squares, and all decorated for Christmas. It truly sparkles.

Rainy Days Sometimes Bring Happy Endings & A Night Train to Zagreb

12/05, Monday

Our bus from Mostar to Split departs at 11:10 with overcast skies. It will take about four hours. Surprise! A movie with subtitles! It helps pass the time. It was funny. John Malcovich was in it and it was like a Peter Sellers comedy.

Our first task in Split is to verify the train schedule from there to Ljubljana. Our plan is to stay overnight in Split and catch the morning 8:50 train to Rijeka. There we have to stay overnight due to a scheduling problem, and catch the next morning's train to Ljubljana.

As we explain all this to the train ticket agent, she offers an alternative plan. Take an overnight train from Split leaving at 21:37 tonight that arrives in Zagreb, Croatia, at 6:05 on Tuesday. Then, take train from Zagreb to Ljubljana, arriving at 14:49, same day. What a great idea! It saves two nights lodging cost, and a wasted day in Rijeka, a place we didn't want to see anyway. And, we can rent a sleeper compartment on the train. That's a done deal! She was a very nice woman and explained everything well.

Now we have several hours to relax in Split which we know well from having been there a week ago. After a good dinner, we have two hours to kill. By good luck, there is a string quartet concert at the Croatian National Theater at 7:30pm. We had been talking of needing a music-fix earlier in the day. This fits the bill perfectly.

Fun walking around a bit and seeing the plazas decorated for Christmas. They had just started when we were here before. Dubrovick had bayberry and oranges hanging in all the arches, which looked really nice.

The quartet consists of two violins, a viola, and a cello performing Bežicević (no idea who he is, but contemporary) and Dvorak. We are treated to a piano quintet of Schubert, too, but have to leave after one movement to make the train. They were very good and the room was beautiful. It was in a small concert room upstairs from the main hall that we were in a week or so ago.

So, what started as a rainy day has brought several happy endings.

We're on the train now, and it seems good so far, compact space, but smooth ride and quiet. We'll see how we feel in the morning. Luckily, the window slides down to open so we can get some fresh air. I (Sandy) then proceed to misplace the tickets, but they surfaced after a hectic search, and we're on our way.

I asked the conductor if I could have some hot water for a cup of tea. He said "Sure, in the morning". Two little, packaged sweet rolls are in our compartment, so I guess I can have breakfast in bed!

We need to read Rick Steves on Zagreb. We had not planned on going there until today. Since it is the capital of Croatia, it will be good to see.

Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH)

12/03 and 12/04
Having looked at the bus schedules, we decided to spend at least two days in Mostar, Bosnia Hercegovina. The bus ride takes three hours, including three border/passport stops. As we climb away from the Adriatic coast into the hinterlands, we follow rivers flowing from the mountains.

The countryside here reflects today's overcast dreary weather...not very inspiring nor well-kept, so far, a contrast to the neat captivating waterfront towns in Croatia.

Our Mostar greeting is less than friendly. No smiles, abrupt answers and pleas for handouts. With some help we arrive at our hotel where we are met by Teo. He is friendly and helpful, improving our impression of BiH. We have a nice room (we're the only guests) and a balcony overlooking the Neretva River. Great sleeping hearing the rushing water.

This "old town" isn't surrounded by walls and has no forts. One just starts walking on river rocks rather than sidewalks and you are in the "old town". Immediately you feel very mixed emotions that are hard to explain. Encouraged by authentic small stands and shops and then saddened by bombed out buildings. This was a town where people used to live in great harmony regardless of ethnicity or religion. It all changed in the 90's and certainly shows the horrific effects of war.

Stari Most (old bridge) is Mostar's pride and symbol. In fact, the town name means Bridge Keeper (Mostari). It was built in the 16th century and crossed the Neretva River for over 400 years. It was destroyed during the 1993 war with Croatia, rebuilt in 2004 at great expense, along with much of the surrounding Old Town. Ironically the Croats and Bosnians fought together against the Serbs before fighting each other literally on each side of their beloved bridge.

Remnants of the Bosnian wars are everywhere, bombed buildings/roofs, walls with bullet pock marks and cemeteries with 1992 or 1993 deaths (the war years). One stone is etched with "Remember 1993". These are constant reminders to locals and tourists.

Unlike towns in Croatia where there is ongoing (re)construction, here there is none, or what has been started some time ago has been disbanded. The lack of restoration has another impact...quite a bit of litter and trash in the streets, in the river, and in bombed buildings. Evidently people have lost some pride of their place even in the upper middle class neighborhoods.

Enough bad news! Sunday brings better weather and improved attitude. A young woman welcomes us to Karadjoz-bey Mosque, showing us the mosque interior and explaining about the Bosnian Muslim religion. One difference in practice here is that women are not required to wear a veil. Really enjoyed talking with this woman and she again said the people were living peacefully, but it was power hungry politicians and corrupt leaders that caused the war. She is a Muslim Bosinian and lived fine in Croatia during the war.

Ninety- five steps within a narrow, dark column brings us near the top of the mosque's minaret, giving a great view of the area. We have to climb down and out before 12:00, the second call to prayers for the day. They have five calls a day and you hear the chanting over speakers from the top of the minarets.

There is a very intense Turkish influence in Mostar. Lots of copper jewely and beautiful carpets. Also strong thick Turkish coffee.

Wandering the old town streets is harder than the streets in Croatia where they are mostly flat stone. Mostar's are made from rounded river rocks, some set on edge making them slippery and bumpy.

Most of the churches and synagogues were destroyed during the wars, too. St Peter and St Paul Franciscan catholic church was rebuilt with the highest tower/steeple. The Jewish Synagogue has not been restored. What remains is a stone shell. Why? The neighborhood is upper middle class, but that does not eliminate bombed-out homes.

We have seen another face of the former Yugoslavia. Interestingly, several people we have chatted with, including the Muslim mosque host, feel that the Balkans would be better off had Josip Brož Tito lived and held Yugoslavia together.

After walking over a bridge and climbing a minaret, both built in the 16th century, we now have our feet up in our room watching Meet the Press, which we have not been able to see since leaving mid October. Hard to grasp it all.

Tomorrow we return to Split to catch a train back to Rijeka, and on to Ljubljana, Slovenia, for a few days.

Last Day in Dubrovnik

12/2 Friday

This is our fifth day in the Dubrovnik area, including yesterday's trip to Kotor. We have done a pretty thorough tour of the museums and historic sites.

Went to the Ethnographic Museum this morning. It is housed in a fortress-like building built to contain an enormous granary in the 15th century. There are nine huge storage "bins" beneath the ground floor in hollowed-out stone which kept the grain dry and at a constant temperature of 63 degrees. This took a long time to build and was in continual use through the 19th century. Also had many interesting exhibits on life during that time...cooking, farming, weaving. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted in the museum, so we can't include any photos.

Cavtat is a town we had considered staying in when we were planning our visit to Dubrovnik. It's 15km south on the coast, an old seaside town. During the busy summer season, it is popular as an alternative place to stay to avoid crowds.

Out of curiosity, we took a bus over (literally, up a steep hill/mountain) and down to the harbor. Only one restaurant is open (season is over) where we have a hearty farmers bean soup while playing gin rummy.

A walk along the promenade/peninsula around the park at the opening to the Adriatic leads us to a mausoleum designed by our new favorite Croatian artist, Ivan Meštrovič. It is another example of his artistic skill as an architect as well as an artist. We happened to be there at 16:00, perfect timing to catch the sun setting.

Then, a mad rush to catch the 16:15 bus back to Dubrovnik. Its a 45 minute ride which would have been a frustrating trip each day over and back. The 78 steps up and down are not bad in comparison! The return is very pretty driving right by the water, seeing the beautiful colors in the sky after the sun set.

Went to a small, modest home where Malin Drzic, a famous Croatian dramatist, was born in 1508. There was an exhibit, an audio headset, giving facts and playing music and his actual room. We had a difference of opinion when we left. I thought it was clever and Dick said it was the worst museum he has seen.

We happened to walk in on the concert symphony practicing in Dub, but heard about the last two minutes. Sounded good! Think we are missing our ushering a bit.

Had to have a final crepe filled with gelato at this cute little place before climbing the 78 stairs to our apartment. You really don't see any obese people here. A few days ago an old man using two crutches left his home across from us walking down the steps with some assistance. Hardy, as well as resilient.

Tomorrow it is off to Mostar, about three hours from here, making a little head way getting back north toward Istria, but away from the coast. Anxious to hear about the other side of this crazy war in the 90's. It is supposed to rain.

On Sandy's Bucket List: A Visit to Montenegro

12/1, Thursday
A new month, a new country...Montenegro! The name conjures visions of James Bond in "Casino Royale" which is set here, but was actually filmed in the Czech Republic for the most part.

Niño is our van driver and a cheerful guy. Ryo, Lena, and Shun are along, too. They're university students from Japan on their senior year trip. Five passengers is the least number that the tour company will take, so it was meant to be.

We stop several times along the way to enjoy the scenery. It does seem different than Croatia. It seems more rugged and dramatic and known as the "black mountain". Rick Steves, whose comments seem right on, says Montenegro is the encore to Dubrovik.

Our first big stop is the Bay/Town of Kotor. It is located at the end of a very long fjord. The town is surrounded by imposing walls reaching way up the mountainside. We probably made it up about one tenth just to enjoy the view. Again, how in the world did they build it?

Montenegro uses the Euro, not Kuna, and the stores won't accept kuna. We are forced to exchange at a ridiculous rate and commission.

Our second stop is just that, to see from the road the private island of St. Stephan. No visitors allowed. Photos only from a distance.

Budva, a major tourist town on the sea, is our lunch stop. A nice seaside restaurant for the five of us. The students are are all good conversationalists, in English. Shun grew up in Orange County, CA. Lena is currently studying in Rotterdam, The Netherlands. And, Ryo is taking an English-speaking course in London.

Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegevna, is our planned destination for the weekend. Now, we need to figure out how to get there and back.

What's Next? It's Wednesday. Another day to explore Dubrovnik.

11/30
There is much to see around Dubrovnik, so what's next?

St. Lawrence (Lovrijenac) Fortress seems like a good starting place. The fort sits atop a promontory (121' above sea level) jutting into the sea, protecting the town and harbor, just outside the town wall. It is sometimes called Dubrovnik's Gibraltar. Up more steps to reach it, we're impressed by the structure and design...walls are eight feet thick, solid stone, with many vantages for defense. This would be a great venue for an outdoor event (music, reception, wedding) because of the views of the sea and town, and dlarge open spaces. Met a nice German couple when leaving and they wanted to practice their English, so we had a nice visit.

After the fort we went on a 12 person tour boat (yes, we were the only two) and saw the city from the water. Very impressive! Now we've seen the town from above (the fort), on the ground, and from the water. Went around a large very dense island called Lokrum. Had fun talking to the driver and he was fishing while steering and caught a nice fish for dinner. He too talked about the war in the 90's and the earthquake in1979 that caused considerable damage. He pointed out hotels on the shore built by Russian investors (mafia) which are not only ugly, but may never be used. These are resilient people.

We then went to the city museum located in the rector's palace. Aptly named ! Beautiful building with equally beautiful paintings starting from the 4th century. The rooms upstairs are down right opulent and members of the nobility lived there a month at a time. Gave everyone a chance. Describing the prison in the lower part they said one punishment was "mandatory rowing on government vessels".

We are trying to decide whether to take a bus tour into Montenegro to see the city and Bay of Kotor. It's a 2.5 hour ride. Another option is to bus into Bosnia-Herzegovina (2.5 hrs) to the town of Mostar. Both destinations have been recommended to us. Maybe we'll do both on separate days.