Saturday, May 26, 2012

Getting Familiar with Vienna, Day 3

05/26, Saturday
Karin starts our day with juice, bread, and coffee. She has another itinerary for our day in Vienna. She has alerted us to a senior rate tram/U-Bahn ticket, half-price. After buying a supply for several days, we walk through the lower (winter) portion of the Belvedere...several fountains and lots of green space.

That brings us to the Salzberger Platz and, from there, a few blocks west on the Ring Strasse to the Opera. We are approached by one of many hawkers selling tickets to the various concerts and operas. We negotiate what we feel is a pretty good price for a small concert of Mozart and Strauss tonight at 8:00.

We have lunch and all the Vienna specialties at a place that Karin told us about. We sit outside. The people watching is great. The weather is perfect today, and it is the start of a long 4-day weekend.

Trying to find the Mozart concert hall, we end up in the Hofburg Palace grounds. Among many enormous buildings is the Spanish Riding School, where the Lippanzaner horses train and perform. We get tickets for a tour of the stables tomorrow at 2:00pm.

Now it's time for a famous Viennese dessert, the Sacher Torte. The Sacher Hotel and Cafe are located behind the Opera. The Sacher family name is a big brand here since 1879 and the torte is a favorite of tourists and locals...dark chocolate cake that requires 32 steps to properly complete, a secret recipe, of course.

We rest back at Lukas and Karin's for 1-1/2 hours and then return for the concert at 8:00. The tram system is typical European...clean and on-time. It's only a 15 minute ride and, as senior citizens, we ride at 1/2 price, €1.25 each.

The concert is in a small hall, grandly called the Palais Palffy. There are 6 string players, a pianist, a soprano, and two ballet dancers...performing on a small stage. Mozart is the first half with all performers dressed in period costumes. For the second half of Strauss, the players are in traditional current attire...all black.

Most of the tunes sound familiar to us, but the most popular is The Blue Danube. The performers are professional and very competent, but not up to symphony standards. We were entertained, but not wildly impressed. It's strange how good talent and training do not always add up to high quality.

Returning to catch the tram, we pass by the Opera. Outside on the side of the building, those who can't afford tickets or aren't great opera fans can watch and hear the live performance free on a jumbo screen. We take about 15 minutes to listen. Of course, it's sung in Italian, but they provide subtitles...in German.

On our return to K&L's, we have a relaxing conversation over a good Australian Shiraz Cabernet. They are taking a two day holiday starting Sunday, so they are leaving us in charge. Karin has done a lot of research and planning for the remainder of our time in Austria which includes 4 days in Salzburg and 2 days in Innsbruch.



Stairway in
Karin and Lukas'
apartment building

One of the Ponds
in the
Belvedere Gardens

In Front of the
Summer Palace
of the Belvedere

Front of the
Opera from the
Ring Strasse


Dancer and Violinist
from the
Mozart-Strauss Concert
 

Add caption
Typical Street and Buildings
in Downtown Vienna
 

Friday, May 25, 2012

We Meet Lukas and Karin and Jakob

05/25, Friday
I stuffed myself at breakfast with traditional Austrian fare...eggs, pastry, meat, cereal, cheese, more pastry, and lots of coffee...strong.

Cousin Jack's contact in Vienna, Lukas and Karin Mayerhofer, are our hosts for the next several days. Their home is within 4 minutes walk of our hotel, so we arrive by 11:30, after just a minor confusion of the address. It's a beautiful weather day with temps in the 70s.

What a wonderful couple!! Lukas carried both of our heavy bags (at least 50 pounds each) up three flights. Their home is on the top two floors of the building which is probably 100 years old. Karin has a great eye for decorating, in fact, she and a friend are in that business together. Lukas is off to work...he rides a motor bike. Their son, Jacob, is at school until 2:00. It's a long weekend...Monday is a holiday. Their place is wonderful, warm and quite unique. They do welcome us with open arms, just like cousin said they would.

Karin informs us of things to see and do in Vienna, which we follow to a 'T'. U-Bahn #1 to the Danouinsel (Danube Island) stop. Find a bike rental (which Mom persists in finding although it is not easy to locate, and I'm doubting). Ride on the island paths which are paved for 28km. This is a manmade island and of course no cars.Spending time on a beautiful day biking with the Danube on both sides is quite nice!

We then U-Bahn back to the Belvedere, two palaces built for Prince Eugene of Savoy, a summer palace and a winter palace separated by a 500-yard garden. They are opulent and maintained perfectly. Today they house an art museum of primarily Austrian artists including Gustav Klimt. You will probably recognize one of his art pieces below. The rooms themselves are beautiful art pieces and there are marvelous views of the gardens. The gardens are only a few minutes walk to Lukas and Karen's home.

Lukas arrives home from work at 6:30 and we're off for dinner by 7:30 at a neighborhood restaurant, Sperl's, and sit outside. Great, fun dinner and their son, Jacob, meets us there after going to the movies with friends. We sit outdoors on their rooftop deck when we return home and have some special Austrian red wine. Really, really a nice family.

Return to Fumel, and Leaving Fumel for Austria

05/19, Saturday
The weatherman was wrong! It is a beautiful day.

After b'fast at our hotel in Perigeux, we head to the Roman Museum passing through town...about a 20 minute walk that we turn into 50. That leaves only 45 minutes to learn about the 2nd century Roman settlement here named Vesunna. There are plenty of artifacts and the remains of a 4500 sq meter home. The town was only discovered 60 years ago. Very highly sophisticated engineering used including floor heating, solar heating, water pumps, and aqueducts. Amazing !

As we wait to leave Perigeux in the train station, it is raining, but we are dry. A woman helped us get the right bus to the Gare and we have an hour before departure.

Had a leisurely lunch,consisting of large salads, on the square and then another look inside the cathedral before picking up our luggage.

Our train arrived in Marsempron-Libos exactly at 19:05 where John and Madeleine picked us up. We made a quick change of clothes at the apartment and left for dinner and a jazz concert in Lacapelle-Biron. We were entertained by a six-man jazz band, the AriJazz, at Le Palissy chez Norbert bar-restaurant.

Both the dinner and the entertainment were very good. The menu included Soupe de Clams et Crabes, Filet d'Asturgeon aux Epices, Purée de Patates douce et Coco Champignons aux Herbes, and Fraises au Rhum et Menthe Poivée. Doesn't that sound good? The band played lots of New Orleans jazz and American favorites: Duke Ellington's "Caravan", "Sunny Side of the Street", "St. Louis Blues", and "Bye-Bye Blues". They played until 11:00pm.

Mom put some wash in before bed to get cleaned up from our 2-week jaunt.

05/20, Sunday, Laura's Birthday, Matt & Lizzy's Anniversary
Brief shopping at the Sunday market in Fumel. Lunch at A Gong, a Vietnamese restaurant in Fumel.

Then, a return trip to the Iris Farm. J&M had taken us there our first week in France, but it was too early for any flowers to be in bloom. Today, while it's raining, the irises are in full bloom...there must be 50-75 varieties. What a beautiful sight!

From there, we're off to hear a student piano concert. The venue is an old stone monastery, now privately owned, used for recitals. The two pianists are 3rd and 4th year conservatory students from Saint Sebastian, Spain. Each performer played for about 45 minutes, no sheet music for reminder, only short breaks between each piece. They were both very skilled and professional. Composers included Liszt, Chopin, Ravel, Franck.

Last on our schedule for today, Madeleine prepared dinner of duck breast and salad of endive and mushroom. Delicious as always!

05/21, Monday
This morning we made reservations for a hotel for one night in Vienna (Wien in Austria). After that, we will be hosted by Cousin Jack's friends Lukas and Karin Mayerhofer who live there.

J&M assisted us with getting train tickets to Bordeaux for Wednesday. We, also, had a superb lunch at a new Tea Salon in Fumel, Choc O Lot, kind of a play on words because of their delicious chocolates (and other desserts), and because they're located near the Lot River.

With Madeleine, we watched a 60 Minutes segment about Harmony Schools, charter schools "sponsored" by a wealthy Turk named Gulen. The schools are very effective, but the segment raised some questions about the motives of Mr. Gulen. Most of the schools are in Texas (known as Harmony), there are others, including the Math and Science Academy in Chicago, in 25 other states that are part of Gulen Charter Schools.

05/22, Tuesday
Our last full day in France. We will pack up for our next adventure in Austria today so we can be ready to leave at 7:00.

Madeleine and John invited us for our final lunch together at home. A delicious duck cassolet (using duck confit) with white beans and a mild sausage, and John's carrot cake with caramel ice cream. Toooo Gooood! No dinner necessary tonight.

Madeleine has a 14:00 French student, Bjorn from Sweden. And, we have more final things to pack and errands in town. We all took an hour walk through town this evening at 8:00, and said "good byes" to Madeleine. We will see John at 7:20am when he takes us to the train station. And, they will be coming to Chicago in November to visit John's daughter and celebrate his 80th birthday.














Wednesday, May 23, 2012

On Our Way to Austria & Vienna, Day One

05/23, Wednesday
We're up early and John rings for us at 7:20, off to the train station in M-L. Plenty of time for train departure at 7:45. We are on a fairly tight schedule until boarding the night train to Vienna.

Oh-Oh! There is no train this morning to Agen! A bus, instead, arrives about 15 minutes late to transport us to the Agen station. Our train connection in Agen to Bordeaux departs at 9:01. They had to hold the train for us about 4 minutes. Now, we're on our way to Bordeaux.

Today's travels include: car to station, bus (instead of train) to Agen, train to Bordeaux, bus to Bordeaux airport, plane to Rome, bus to Rome train, overnight train to Vienna. We hope the RyanAir portion is delayed from 13:00 because our bus connection is very close, 10:30 - 11:15, which leaves less than 2 hours for check-in and security. The night train doesn't leave until 19:05, so a later arrival in Rome is not too critical.

All connections have worked out fine, and we are waiting at Roma Termini for our night train. Mom has beaten me today at Cribbage and Gin. That only leaves Scrabble! We are thinking of trying to learn Chess. The App I downloaded was confusing...maybe there's another easier one.

We're on the overnight train in our compartment. With all of our luggage, it's crowded, but the company has provided free sparking wine, bottled water, and a cookie. Fortunately, Mom inquired about a dining car...none...so we had pasta and a salad in the station. Alec, our steward, set up the beds and took our breakfast order...breads, cereal, OJ, coffee. Riding on the train is kind of like being in a washing machine on the tumble cycle. I don't dare remove my contacts in fear of plucking out an eye. The beds are quite comfortable and clean, but the jerking of the train keeps you from sleeping soundly.

05/24, Thursday
The landscape from the train windows shows the beautiful hills of Austria and it does look like The Sound of Music! In German language, Austria is Österreichishe, which means West Region, I think.

Arrival in Vienna at 8:30am. (Austrian spelling for Vienna is Wien, pronounced "Veen".) Taxi to hotel, check-in, and leave bags. Tram to tourist info center behind the Opera building, and some walking. Tram tour around the Ringstrasse (a broad street that replaced the town defensive walls) to hear about some of the important buildings. Vienna is well laid out and seems quite easy to get around. Many beautiful buildings and lots of ornamentation. Fifty percent of Vienna is green and one park is larger than Central Park. The City (Stadt) Park has many statues and busts of famous composers from Vienna. I'm glad we are here !

Our Hotel Prinz Eugen is across from the new Süd Bahnhof, south train station. We have to "learn" another language, German. Austrians do not consider themselves as Germans although their language is very similar, if not exactly the same, but with different lilt. The toilets are for Herren and Damen; the streets are strasse; the churches are kirche; Danou for Dunube; platz for piazza or place.

After a short rest in the hotel, we venture out again to see Stephansplatz and St Stephansdom, the cathedral. can you believe, I forgot my camera! So, no photos of churches and streets. We had dinner at a typical Austrian street cafe...Mom had goulash and I had fried liver, onions and fried potatoes. The liver was tender and tasty, not like when I was a kid...like shoe leather. We used the U-Bahn, unterbahn, subway. Very clean, fast, quiet, on-time...just like Chicago's!

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Touring the Wine Road

05/11, Friday
You may not know where in France we are now. After leaving Paris which is north central, we trained a little south and far east to Strasbourg, basicly near the German border. The train to Colmar took us a short distance further south, still near Germany. Ribeauvillé is a few miles west of Colmar.

Alsace is the furthest eastern department in France. In fact, it has been part of Germany on three occasions. The town names and surnames sound more German than French. The Rhein River which separates Alsace, France, from Germany is a short diastase to the east.

Christine is off to work already. Francois has set breakfast for us with several delicious Alsacean breads. We had asked to see France's home in Ribeauville. It was Christine's grandmother's home, part of the town wall with the front on the town street and the garden in the countryside. Francois has renovated most of the rooms, removing walls and updating the kitchen. It is a wonderful place and you can hear the rushing water from the river in the back and view the quaint town from the front. They also have a son, Jean, who lives in Paris. Cousin Jack is his godfather. Jean is a software engineer.

Again, Francois took time to show us around this town. Christine's family originated here. Her father was a tailor with a shop on the main street. Like most towns, it has a wall around it for protection, and a second wall for greater protection. I guess you could never be safe enough!

Then, we headed out alone to visit several other towns on The Wine Road. Everyone of the towns are quaint, colorful, picturesque, set with a backdrop of the Vosges Mountains, and very tidy. Francois attributes Alsace with the best of both cultures, French and German. Most people here speak Alsacean as well as French and German.

The highlight of our day is, what else, a castle in Haut Koenigsbourg. It is another example of how the nobility lived in the 14th-17th centuries. It has been completely renovated and is still in the process. The stonework is all red sandstone.

We had dinner in Ribeauville outdoors on the street. It is a quiet town this time of year...not many tourists. Our meals were traditional Alsacean food. Mom had lamb knuckles and I had veal cordon bleu, with spaetcles and veggies, and two wonderful deserts (yes, we are putting on some weight I'm afraid).

Most wines from Alsace are white or rosé...Muscat, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir (for rosé and red)...and they are a bit sweet for my taste. Mom likes them though. The Wine Road passes through many vineyards. The vines already show new growth. We drove on some very back roads (unpaved, used by the people who tend the grape vines), surrounded on all sides by vines.

Return to Fumel, and Leaving Fumel for Austria

05/19, Saturday
The weatherman was wrong! It is a beautiful day.

After b'fast at our hotel in Perigeux, we head to the Roman Museum passing through town...about a 20 minute walk that we turn into 50. That leaves only 45 minutes to learn about the 2nd century Roman settlement here named Vesunna. There are plenty of artifacts and the remains of a 4500 sq meter home. The town was only discovered 60 years ago. Very highly sophisticated engineering used including floor heating, solar heating, water pumps, and aqueducts. Amazing !

As we wait to leave Perigeux in the train station, it is raining, but we are dry. A woman helped us get the right bus to the Gare and we have an hour before departure.

Had a leisurely lunch,consisting of large salads, on the square and then another look inside the cathedral before picking up our luggage.

Our train arrived in Marsempron-Libos exactly at 19:05 where John and Madeleine picked us up. We made a quick change of clothes at the apartment and left for dinner and a jazz concert in Lacapelle-Biron. We were entertained by a six-man jazz band, the AriJazz, at Le Palissy chez Norbert bar-restaurant.

Both the dinner and the entertainment were very good. The menu included Soupe de Clams et Crabes, Filet d'Asturgeon aux Epices, Purée de Patates douce et Coco Champignons aux Herbes, and Fraises au Rhum et Menthe Poivée. Doesn't that sound good? The band played lots of New Orleans jazz and American favorites: Duke Ellington's "Caravan", "Sunny Side of the Street", "St. Louis Blues", and "Bye-Bye Blues". They played until 11:00pm.

Mom put some wash in before bed to get cleaned up from our 2-week jaunt.

05/20, Sunday, Laura's Birthday, Matt & Lizzy's Anniversary
Brief shopping at the Sunday market in Fumel. Lunch at A Gong, a Vietnamese restaurant in Fumel.

Then, a return trip to the Iris Farm. J&M had taken us there our first week in France, but it was too early for any flowers to be in bloom. Today, while it's raining, the irises are in full bloom...there must be 50-75 varieties. What a beautiful sight!

From there, we're off to hear a student piano concert. The venue is an old stone monastery, now privately owned, used for recitals. The two pianists are 3rd and 4th year conservatory students from Saint Sebastian, Spain. Each performer played for about 45 minutes, no sheet music for reminder, only short breaks between each piece. They were both very skilled and professional. Composers included Liszt, Chopin, Ravel, Franck.

Last on our schedule for today, Madeleine prepared dinner of duck breast and salad of endive and mushroom. Delicious as always!

05/21, Monday
This morning we made reservations for a hotel for one night in Vienna (Wien in Austria). After that, we will be hosted by Cousin Jack's friends Lukas and Karin Mayerhofer who live there.

J&M assisted us with getting train tickets to Bordeaux for Wednesday. We, also, had a superb lunch at a new Tea Salon in Fumel, Choc O Lot, kind of a play on words because of their delicious chocolates (and other desserts), and because they're located near the Lot River.

With Madeleine, we watched a 60 Minutes segment about Harmony Schools, charter schools "sponsored" by a wealthy Turk named Gulen. The schools are very effective, but the segment raised some questions about the motives of Mr. Gulen. Most of the schools are in Texas (known as Harmony), there are others, including the Math and Science Academy in Chicago, in 25 other states that are part of Gulen Charter Schools.

05/22, Tuesday
Our last full day in France. We will pack up for our next adventure in Austria today so we can be ready to leave at 7:00.

Madeleine and John invited us for our final lunch together at home. A delicious duck cassolet (using duck confit) with white beans and a mild sausage, and John's carrot cake with caramel ice cream. Toooo Gooood! No dinner necessary tonight.

Madeleine has a 14:00 French student, Bjorn from Sweden. And, we have more final things to pack and errands in town. We all took an hour walk through town this evening at 8:00, and said "good byes" to Madeleine. We will see John at 7:20am when he takes us to the train station. And, they will be coming to Chicago in November to visit John's daughter and celebrate his 80th birthday.