Trogir is a 3rd century Greek town taking up an entire small island squeezed between the mainland and a much larger island of Čiovi, about 12 miles from Split. As we ventured out after breakfast we were happy to be here: sunny, warm and a picturesque town. It is on the list of historic towns. They are putting up some Christmas decorations.
There was some activity at the coffee shops in the square in front of our B&B. We had a big breakfast at our B&B.The village has many narrow paved walking paths; only bicycles are allowed. We walked all the way around the edges of town near the water, and then into the maze of paths that wind through the center. During that tour, we met the harbor master who lives in a stone villa that has been in his family since 1492, the year America was founded.
We also discovered that Kairos, the Greek god of the happy moment, is Trogir's symbol. As we walked in another part of town we saw several people working on an archeological dig. They had discovered some Roman graves from the 3rd century.
This is an important day for Croatia, November 18. They celebrate the defeat of 5,000 heavily-armed Serbs on that date in 1990 by a mere 500 Croat war heroes who had few armaments. This event changed the direction of the war in favor of Croatia leading to their independence in 1991. There will a blessing from the town loggia this evening presided over by the Bishop of Trogir, and children will place lighted candles in the form of a cross in the center of the piazza.
We stopped by at 17:30 to see the event. The plaza is crowded mostly with young people...from 8 to 18. There are some adults, and fewer men. Those who fought in the war and remember it are on the periphery watching. The kids who aren't old enough to remember the war, who now benefit from the democracy that was wrought, are having a good time...as they should...and placing their candles.
We were able to eat outside since they had some heaters going and had a relaxing pizza and beer.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
A Day in Trogir