Sunday, April 29, 2012

Getting Ready for Paris

04/29, Sunday
Lots of clothes from our Figueres/Barcelona trip need washing. Today's the day for that.

Also, J&M have invited us to a band concert in Puy l'Eveque. One of their friends whom we met last week, Tony, plays the euphonium (baritone brass instrument) in one of the bands. The concert is at 3:00pm in the community center. it is well attended by local folks. We are impressed with the number and quality of events available in this "countryside" area.

The first segment of the program features the Harmonie de Puy L'Eveque, a 26-instrument group...trombone, French horn, trumpet, clarinet, saxophone, flute, baritone, drum, timpani...brass and reed instruments. Five numbers, "Les Moulins de Mon Coeur" (Windmills of my Heart) written by Michel Legrand is one I recognize. Also, a medley by a French composer, Michel Sardou: "Une fille aux yeux clairs" and "Les lacs du Connemara", the last of which was repeated and the audience clapped in time.

Part two is another 22-piece band Lyre Republicane d'Orbigny. Their eight numbers are more complicated rhythms, including a Mambo #5 (Perez Prado), Just in Time, Mask of Zorro, even Hello Dolly!

Part three combined the two bands for four more tunes, The Pink Panther was one. The program was about two hours in length. I had thought we would hear more French-style music (whatever that might be, especially today when music is global).

The four of us took a short break at home, then walked up to Fumel for dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant, A. Dong, where we enjoyed prawns, squid, chicken, beef, and crisp noodles. Back to John and Madeleine's for a DVD session of The Ascent of Man.

04/30, Monday
We'll try to finish up our outdoor painting today, but it is raining on and off. Mom is doing online research on Paris, Colmar, smaller towns, and train connections. That leaves me for clean-up...vacuuming, washing a few items by hand and wringing out.

We watched an old 1969 movie "Midnight Cowboy" with Dustin Hoffman and John Voight this afternoon. A classic. A Texas "cowboy", Joe Buck, and a NYC "con man", Ratso Rizzo, develop an unlikely bond living on the fringe in NYC.

Over dinner we watched a documentary "Happy" about the importance of happiness in our lives and across cultures. A very challenging goal for each of us to work on.

Would you believe it? We downloaded and watched a third movie! "Vicky Christina Barcelona", Woody Allen's film about male-female differences that takes place in Barcelona, having just returned from there ourselves.

05/01, Tuesday, May Day
May Day in France (and Europe, in general) is a big holiday much like the US Labor Day. Most businesses are closed, banks, government offices, schools, too. And, the weather has made a dramatic improvement...lots of sun and blue sky.

We're off with J&M to buy some plants for their garden this morning to a bastide town of Tournon d'Agenois overlooking a valley. It's an annual event with flowers and plants, food, jewelry, clothing, and entertainment. J&M buy eight or ten plants to put in planters on their patio.

The entertainment is a jazz band of old men called Les Lafayette Stompers. Keyboard, percussion, flugelhorn horn, trombone, and one guy sings in English. Lots of people, dogs, kids, all enjoying this beautiful warm sunny day.

It's such a great day we have decided to take a long bike ride along the river into the countryside. Shortly after we leave the small commune of Condat we pass an old stone barn which we have seen before, but this time the door is open with a sign "Gratuite Gallerie". So, we stop in to meet the artist, Cèlestin Morcillo, who is a dapper older French man. His barn is filled with his oil paintings, all nicely displayed in frames. We are the only ones there so he takes time to show us several pieces and explain about them...unfortunately we can't appreciate his French explanations.

The bike road leads past farms and camp grounds. Lots of colza plants that will become canola oil soon. Also, sapling plum trees. The farm houses are typical stone buildings with several attached barns and granaries.

Two hours and 20 miles later, we return to find John and Madeleine out on their patio planting the new flower plants. They are colorful and really cheerful.

J&M have invited for a hike along the Lot, but in a different place on the south bank toward Libos. It is a crude path where we can hear the river as it flows through a power sluice and over over rapids. John, who taught biology at university, explains some of the derivation of plant species naming as we see specimens along the trail.

The evening finishes viewing a DVD about Paris, many of the usual sights but filmed and narrated in a more intimate way.

Return to Fumel with a Stopover in Narbonne, France

04/28, Saturday
The TGV from Figueres to Narbonne is fast, quiet, and comfy. Only one hour. Both of us needed a little food and coffee and OJ which the train provided.

With a 3-1/2 hour layover in Narbonne, we walked 10 minutes into the old town. The canal Robine passes through the middle connecting to other waterways. Many centuries ago, Narbonne was a port on the Mediterranean, with a deep river. A flood caused it to silt-up and now it is 23km from the sea.

It has had an up and down and up, again, history. Transportation has played an important part in it's fortunes...the Roman road via Domitia which connected Italy with Spain via France, the sea, the river, the canal, and, now, the train. The old Roman road was just discovered in 1997 and a portion of it is preserved in the main square. Narbonne was once the capital of the Aude region, a position held by Marseilles today.

[Madeline's family lived in Narbonne in the 1930s. They escaped to France during the Franco dictatorship.]

And, the Catholic church was a prominent fixture with an Archbishop's Palace and Cathedral which has never been finished...but, what was finished (only the choir and one entrance) is huge and impressive. Lots and lots of large impressive stained glass.

We enjoyed Narbonne, sitting by the canal, munching on a pastry that is the town's specialty called Narbonnais. Also got one for M&J. We made a quick visit to the Cathedral. Then, caught trains to Agen and Libos where John picked us up, took us to Le Clerc for groceries and wine and Floc and Sandrine aperitif.

As a welcome home, Madeleine and John prepare a wonderful 3-course dinner, salad with warm goat cheese, pork and mushrooms with Madeleine's special sauce of prunes marinated in armangnac, and a pastry with almond filling, followed by a great orange liqueur. Politics was on the table for discussion.

Now, for a restful night in our home apartment.

A Day by the Sea and in the Mountains

04/27, Friday
We rented a car today to drive to the cape towns of Caraques and Port Lligat and the monastery at San Pere de Roses. The cape is mostly a Nature Park, the largest in Catalunya. It's only 30km.

[The spelling of the region varies depending on language, of course, but even within Spain it differs. The natives of the region prefer Catalonia because it is the original Catalan language. We have been told that Catalonia would like to break away from Spain to become a separate country. Catalonia is the wealthiest and most prosperous state in Spain. They are very proud of their heritage, too.]

The very hilly and winding road was comparable to the Almalfi coast. No doubt it would have been even more spectacular if the sun was out. We had the best day for our bike ride, which was good. We have a cute little car, a Volkswagen Polo with five speeds.

Caraques and Port Lligat are seaside towns. San Pere de Rodes overlooks the sea from an altitude of 500 meters (1500 feet). Our first real destination is Dali's home in Portilliqat, where he lived with his wife Gala for 40 years. He never returned after her death.

We were lucky to be admitted on short notice, less than 1/2 hour. Usually one must make reservations days in advance for a specific time. Even during this low-season, there are lots of people waiting for a tour. Another time that it proved helpful to be old ! Only 10 people at a time with a personal guide. Ours spoke three languages to repeat the explanation in French, Spanish, and English.

According to folklore, he purchased several fishermen one-room homes over a period of years, connecting them together into a very comfortable and unique 10-room cottage with clever outdoor spaces and a swimming pool. Today, it is a kind of shrine to Dali's lifestyle...furniture, studio, decoration, photos with family and celebrities, quirky stuff.

Given that he was pretty unusual himself, their home is very orderly (undoubtedly "cleansed" for tourists) and extremely livable. He worked in his studio 8-9 hours a day. He preferred to sit while painting so he designed and built a wall-sized easel (12'x12') that moved up and down using a weight and pulley system.

The cottage has only a few of his actual art pieces, but quite a number of the goofy things he constructed as decoration. Gala had her own "retreat" that she had decorated herself. Lots of interesting pictures with dignitaries and celebraties spanning forty years or so.

One disappointing fact about Dali: he chose to stay in Spain during the Franco dictatorship unlike Casals and Picasso both of whom left in protest and concern for the country and their lives.

Leaving Dali behind, our GPS guides us to San Pere de Rodes, first along the coast, then into the hills all via twisting narrow roads. It is very cloudy/foggy at this elevation. There is supposed to be a large monastery here, but all I can see is the ruins of an old church (I assume it is the monastery, but no, it isn't Mom proves to me later). A bunch of mid-school kids are there to learn some history. There are several hiking trails of various distances and we start one. Nice wild flowers along the way, plus we get in some exercise.

Mom convinces me (after she asks someone returning) that there is a monastery out there in the fog. Ten minutes later, there it is, looming on a hill across the valley. We had hoped to eat a nice late lunch there, but they are closed for the day (4:00pm).

As seniors, we are admitted free (versus a €4pp fee) to take a self-guided tour of 23 spaces...tower, dungeon, chancellery, apse, cellar, cloister, chapel, hospital. It dates back to 1055AD with numerous additions over 2 or 3 centuries. Both Mom and I think the monks lived pretty good lives compared to vassals in the field. The monastery was very interesting and walking back to the car the fog lifted and we got a great view of the Mediterrian.

We're both hungry and tired, but make one more stop to see a nearby medieval town of Perlada primarily known now for it's summer concerts. we circle it outside the walls and decide we need to rest and eat more than see another ancient town.

Back in Figueres, after trying to find a parking place near the Ramblas near a restaurant, we return the car to the hotel and walk into town, about 15 minutes. Friday night, there is more activity than we've seen, and more restaurants open. We happen on a tapas place along the Ramblas where we get filled with 5 or 6 small dishes accompanied by vino tinto and a sangria. A fun and lively place, with good food.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Day Trip to Barcelona

04/27, Thursday
Our train from Figueres to Barcelona departs at 8:17, arriving at 10:09. The train service here is excellent and the trains are in great condition. Our plan is to walk from the station (at Placa de Gracias) to the Placa de Cataluyna, about 15 minutes, for a bicycle tour of the city which starts at 11:00. Not really having Spain on our radar until a few days ago, we now want to capture as much as possible and biking is faster than walking. Sherri loves Spain and Madeliene was born in Spain so we are excited to do some exploring.

We have been forewarned by many people (including Matt's experience here and mine in Milan) to protect our wallet. Mom left her's at the hotel, and I have mine stuffed into the front of my pants. We noticed urban police on the streets in many places.

Everything works out. We meet in front of the Hard Rock Cafe with about 20 other riders. Our guide is Sonia, a German, who moved to Barcelona 6 years ago and loves living and working here...she is a full-time graphic artist. She also speaks five languages ! The tour is conducted in English although there are people from Germany, The Netherlands, Portugal, Australia, England, and the USA.

The tour takes over 3 hours and takes in 15 stopping places. The weather was fantastic, the tour great and the city beautiful. At one point we were riding along, there were sidewalk musicians playing, the architecture outstanding, sun shinning and it could hardly have been better. Even the bike seats were comfortable!

Sonia is a great guide providing lots of interesting stories and facts. Barcelona is a bicycle-friendly city with designated paths most everywhere. Residents can "rent" bikes for 30€/year; red and white bikes are racked throughout the city where one pick-up / let-off rentals. There are plenty of motor scooters, too.

We covered a good part of the old city, many plazas, had a drink by the harbor (included in the tour fee), saw the sight of the Olympic village, and the infamous Antonio Gaudi's unfinished church. Nearly fell off my bike when we first spotted the church since it is such a powerful sight. Started in 1882 and probably has twenty more years till completion.

Much of the harbor area today was industrial and warehouses until the 1992 Olympics when it was cleared for sporting events. People are sunbathing on the man-made, wide, beautiful beach. There are windsurfers using the waves and wind.

The city is a mix of busy streets and nice quiet side walking alleys. It is a very sophisticated city...shops, cafes, clothing styles, theater, music (classical guitars, kletzmer),

Later in the day while fighting the crowds on the Ramblas, we make a turn into the public market only to find more people crowded into a smaller space. The stalls of fresh fruit, vegetables and meat really gave us an appetite. Rick Steves suggests a small restaurant at the rear of the market which we seek out and have lunch/dinner, a 13.5€ menu of three courses (platos) and a drink. Cute place, good food and relaxing. My sangria was exceptional.

One of the plazas was called the plaza of the kings and we sat on the steps that Columbus climbed to tell Queen Isabella of a new land. Lots of these tidbits throughout the tour, which I love. Again thanks for our blog so I can remember
them !

We walk back to the train taking in more wonderful buildings with very unique facades and do lots of people watching on the way too. Barcelona is a great city and we had a super day.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Figueres and Salvador Dali

04/25, Wednesday
Our first day in Spain! This is our tenth country in our travels. Today promises to be warm without rain, but windy. Our hotel is several blocks from the "Rambla" and the museum, but it is a pleasant walk and we are anxious to experience a bit of Spain.

Figueres is an upscale city (25,000 people), sophisticated and very orderly. It is in the state of Catalonia, or Catalunya. Walking the streets into the old town is similar to some streets in Chicago, minus the traffic and honking cars. The Ramblas leads into the old town. It is a formal 2-block pavilion with benches and trees and a wide area for strolling (rambling?).

We stop for coffee and I have a big glass of freshly squeezed orange juice that really tasted good. Then onto the tourist center where we get information and plot out our day.

The Dali Theatre Museum is our first stop and it is so unique and enjoyable. The museum itself is a work of art and Dali personally designed it to showcase his life's work. Through his years (1904-1989) he was labeled many things from arrogant to greedy to a clown, but your appreciation for his talent grows enormously as you tour the museum. He certainly was a free spirit and a self-promoter. His work can be disturbing, intriguing, erotic and playful, but all done with great creativity. Dali made one room a tribute to Mae West and her red lips are a soft red sofa and gold drapery for hair. Got to see it to appreciate it !

I think I have found my new favorite artist. Move over Mestrovic. Move over Toulouse. These guys were all great artists, but Salvador knew how to self-promote. He had a big ego, and he had an unusual sense of humor.

Dali had a unique way of describing his works. One really struck me as very odd and funny, but then a docent came by and gave me an explanation. He was hospitalized at one point and a nurse was trying to show her expertise in playing the cello and his painting of this situation was described as "bed and two bedside tables ferociously attacking a cello". Along with a huge ego he definitely had a great sense of humor.

Dali's wife, Gala, is featured in much of his art and she is credited in keeping him from serious depression and truly going over the edge. They lived in the States for several years during WW11.

The Dali's Jewels is an exhibit next door and just as fascinating. He certainly mastered many different medias. This showed sketches and paintings of jewelry Dali designed and then the actual pieces jewelers made from his "visions", like rubies for lips and pearls for teeth. The breathing heart was really something !

In between exhibits we had a great lunch outside at a tapas cafe. I am now hooked on olives stuffed with anchovies and we both really liked Rioja wine. We have moved into another culture with ease.

PART II
It's along trek uphill to the Castell de Sant Ferran, a 17th century fortess above the city. It is the largest monument in Catalonia. Much of it is in good condition. It was in use until 1965 as a state armory. Parts of it were bombed in 1939 at the end of the Spanish civil war to destroy armaments. The design and layout remind me of Fort Ticonderoga in New York. (Remember the model we made, Matt, when you were in middle school?)

It is pentagonal in shape with five redoubts. We learned that each redoubt provided protection to the adjacent redoubt, but not for itself. It had capacity for 500 horses to be tended, housed, and fed in long halls beneath the fort. Their accommodations were pretty comfy for an important part of the defense. The fort's location was significant to defend against attacks across the Pyrenees from France.

We figure we walked at least 8 miles today...less than 400 steps though. So we treated ourselves to a nice dinner of paella and Zifar Ribera del Duero 2005 wine. Sandy was disappointed in the preparation and lack of important ingredients..."not nearly as good as Sherri's!" I agree on both counts.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Heading to Mediterraean Spain

04/24, Tuesday
The skies today are still overcast, but forecasts are for better weather. We can watch birds feeding at the seed-ball hanging on the birdhouse on our terrace. They are very busy and polite.

There is lots of work down the road by the riverside where they are preparing to build a new tour boat wharf. Mostly pulling out old trees and leveling ground. This will make the tour boat more accessible to the anticipated tourist information center. Still plenty of work to do.

Mom and I are packing for Spain. We have a few errands to do in town, lunch, and then John takes us to the train station in Libos. Departure is on time, 13:39 exactly. We transfer to another train in Agen for a 2-1/2 hour ride to Narbonne, followed by a 1 hour ride to Figureres, arriving about 7:00pm.

As we head toward Narboone, we make stops in Toulouse and Carcassonne. The countryside is different here than around Fumel...fewer hills, more canals, sunny, windy.

Waiting in Narbonne for 1-1/2 hours, we plan some of our activity in Barcelona...a bike tour hopefully and walking the Ramblas and a visit to Gaudi's Church of the Family. We only have part of one day.

Matt was in Barcelona in 1999 on his Circumnavigator Club expedition to visit and analyze the economic impact of summer Olympics on the host city...Barcelona hosted the Olympics in 1992.

The last leg from Narbonne to Figueres is uneventful and quick. The countryside is different...lush and green and lakes.

We take a bus to the Hotel Trave and have a light dinner in the bar. Sandy has gazpacho soup and dices of omlette. The guys in the bar are watching soccer and cheering. Now we hear Spanish. Otherwise, we could be in France or Italy.

Monday, April 23, 2012

Preparing to Travel for a Couple of Days

04/22, Sunday
Today France votes the first round for a new President. There will be live coverage after voting is complete. Nicholas Sarkozy and Francois Hollande finished 2-1. They will face each other in two weeks in a run-off.

This is a critical election, and will determine France's future for the next six years.

There's a little complication for the second round: Marie La Pen, the communist party candidate, got almost 20% of the vote, much more than expected. Historically, two-thirds of the communists will cast their second vote for the Centrist Party candidate, Sarkozy; and, one-third for the Socialist candidate, in this case, Hollande. Even though Hollande out-polled Sarkozy in round one, he may lose the second.

Mom and I painted for an hour or so this morning, outside, the lower section of wall of the apartment terrace. J&M want to spruce up and change the color from ruddy-tan to yellow. It looks good. We finished the job on Monday.

Next week, Tuesday, we plan to head further south by train to Narbonne, France. And, then onto Figueres, Spain. This is the home of Salvador Dali Museum. Madeleine and John recommend this Mediterranean coastal town and the museum. They have figured out all of the train connections for us.

04/23, Monday
A Franco-tidbit: John tells us that the state (France) controls the price that a baker can charge for a plain baguette...the country feels that everyone should be able to afford bread, the staff of life. Not only the price, but the ingredients must only consist of four items: flour, water, yeast and salt, no preservatives, no seeds, no other grain. Of course, the quality of flour/wheat may effect the price. It is amazing how much bread (specifically, baguette) is consumed here. We see people leaving the bakery with 8-10 loaves almost daily.

J&M have taken our trip to Spain as a project, thankfully. They have figured out all of the transportation...trains and cars...negotiated the train connections which are not simple...even anticipated our next train trip to Paris by suggesting we buy a French Train Pass that reduces the ticket price by 50%!...got a reduced rental car rate in combination with the train...recommended a nice hotel in Figueres, Spain...figured out how to get to Barcelona for a day...suggested a coastal drive to Dali's home... they are our personal travel agents in France.

So, we leave tomorrow, Tuesday, at 13:39 from Monremprom-Libos and arrive in Figueres around 17:00. Tonight we will watch a movie and play some cards.

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Fun with J&M and The Pre-Historic Museum

04/20, Friday
Rain is blanketing the area on and off today. We have a morning to relax. Then, off to lunch with Madeleine and John in the town of St Sylvestre on the Lot River across from the village of Penne d'Agenais. Our restaurant is Au Fil du l'Eau (On the String of Water), on the river. An extensive buffet (I had pig's feet along with about 10 other things), followed by French veal (only corn-fed), and pineapple flan...local wine is always served.

Our third trip to the Pre-Historic Museum in Puy du Sauverre is a charm...they are open. This small town has taken on an important exposition of information and artifacts gathered from the immediate area. We spent an hour viewing and reading the commentaries, and learning how the "points" (sharp points for arrows and spears) were made by CroMagnun man 17,000 BP.

Madeleine teaches French to a number of adults from Britain. Joyce and David Clarke are a retired couple who live part time in an old stone home/barn in a small town nearby. They have invited us over for tea and coffee. They continue to work on certain aspects to make it their style. It has a lovely English garden where their Border Collie, Casper, can frolic. The interior is very comfortable and tasteful.

This evening we joined J&M for a game of Scrabble. We all felt we had created a good-looking final board with all except one corner and all four sides used. Madeleine scored over 400 points to win after 2 hours of play around 11:00pm. Of course, we mixed in conversation and laughing and some Floc, orange aperitif, and Chenin Blanc.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Off to Gouffre de Paridac

04/19, Thursday, Molly's Birthday
It's another rainy day. What better to do than drive to an indoors activity. Paridac is about two hours drive in the on-and-off rain, some country roads and a short stretch on a toll road. It's at upper end of the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses du Quercy in the Lot Department.

We were delayed along the way trying to find gas. Stopped at three stations that were closed or our credit card wouldn't work (many places here require a card with a chip, the stripe doesn't work). Gas is the equivalent of $7.60 per gallon. Filling up is a major expense.

Indoors is in an underground river chasm. It is an unusual cave of un The diversity and many times the delicacy of the formations is truly amazing.usual dimensions. We have never seen anything quite like it. It was discovered in1889 and they are still exploring the network of tunnels. It is considered one of the most interesting geological site in France.

You go down almost four hundred feet either walking or by three elevators. After waiting in line, we get in a boat paddled by a French gondolier, to enjoy the breathtaking sight on a subterranean river. There is no oxygen in the water so there are no fish or plant life. It is clear and cold.

The diversity of stalactites and stalacmites is amazing in size and shapes. These are unlike any we've seen elsewhere. The delicacy of the formations is truly amazing, too. Photos are not allowed and it is too dark anyway, so there are none attached.

Returning late afternoon (6:00), our GPS (We haven't named it since we've been in France. Maybe she is mad at us.) led us along more back roads than on our way to Padirac. The roads are in good condition, but sometimes narrow (the D- roads, Departmental like our county, are single lane) and very winding. Pretty countryside as we pass through even with intermittent rain.

We have not eaten anything since breakfast so we stop in a small town around 8:00pm for dinner. It's a tiny place. Three British couples sat near us. Mom and I both chose a fixed menu of four courses which was too much food, but it was good...salad with cheese, confit of canard (duck leg and thigh) as the main dish, frommage (cheese), and dessert with a local wine.

We didn't get home until 10:00pm, a little tired but very full. We watched part of an old Robert Redford movie, "Clearing", with Helen Mirren...2-stars.

Off to Gouffre de Paridac

04/19, Thursday, Molly's Birthday
It's another rainy day. What better to do than drive to an indoors activity. Paridac is about two hours drive in the on-and-off rain, some country roads and a short stretch on a toll road. It's at upper end of the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses du Quercy in the Lot Department.

We were delayed along the way trying to find gas. Stopped at three stations that were closed or our credit card wouldn't work (many places here require a card with a chip, the stripe doesn't work). Gas is the equivalent of $7.60 per gallon. Filling up is a major expense.

Indoors is in an underground river chasm. It is an unusual cave of un The diversity and many times the delicacy of the formations is truly amazing.usual dimensions. We have never seen anything quite like it. It was discovered in1889 and they are still exploring the network of tunnels. It is considered one of the most interesting geological site in France.

You go down almost four hundred feet either walking or by three elevators. After waiting in line, we get in a boat paddled by a French gondolier, to enjoy the breathtaking sight on a subterranean river. There is no oxygen in the water so there are no fish or plant life. It is clear and cold.

The diversity of stalactites and stalacmites is amazing in size and shapes. These are unlike any we've seen elsewhere. The delicacy of the formations is truly amazing, too. Photos are not allowed and it is too dark anyway, so there are none attached.

Returning late afternoon (6:00), our GPS (We haven't named it since we've been in France. Maybe she is mad at us.) led us along more back roads than on our way to Padirac. The roads are in good condition, but sometimes narrow (the D- roads, Departmental like our county, are single lane) and very winding. Pretty countryside as we pass through even with intermittent rain.

We have not eaten anything since breakfast so we stop in a small town around 8:00pm for dinner. It's a tiny place. Three British couples sat near us. Mom and I both chose a fixed menu of four courses which was too much food, but it was good...salad with cheese, confit of canard (duck leg and thigh) as the main dish, frommage (cheese), and dessert with a local wine.

We didn't get home until 10:00pm, a little tired but very full. We watched part of an old Robert Redford movie, "Clearing", with Helen Mirren...2-stars.